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The Gamut

The Gamut

Fashion Week 2023 shapes new era of brand identity

Unconventional runway shows preview the Spring/Summer 24 season

Seized in a haze of glamorous runways and otherworldly clothes, designers debuted their ready-to-wear collections ahead of the Spring/Summer 2024 season. Household names in luxury weren’t the only ones garnering attention, though, as this season saw many up-and-coming brands reaching public acclaim through unconventional shows. 

Taking place in the world’s fashion capitals — New York, London, Milan, and Paris — consumers, designers, and other industry professionals attended runway shows from Sept. 8 to Oct. 3, gaining insight on fashion trends and styles for the upcoming season. 

Lesser known designers are finding success through breaking away from the static nature of modern runway shows, proposing fresh runways that are far off from the conventional, and invigorating a new generation of fashion to use unorthodox showcases for displaying brand identity. 

In Milan, SUNNEI SS24 not only featured a profusion of striped silhouettes and vivid colors, but also an audience-turned-critique panel. Given paddle boards labeled 1 through 10 prior to the show’s opening, guests assigned their opinions to a number as the brand’s new fit-to-form tops, oversized trousers, and puffed messenger bags cascaded down the runway.  

Embracing the instinctive judgment that crosses the minds of runway spectators, the brand’s interactive twist on the traditional fashion show experience brought forth one of the most memorable moments of the season. 

SUNNEI wasn’t the only show that reconstructed the runway. At Italian-based brand AVAVAV SS24, anxiety levels peaked as models rushed in and out of the runway — some topless and frantically changing  clothes amidst the audience stares, others running in with mascara trickling down their faces. The designs were wrought with intentionally messy, yet intriguing creative choices: duct tape dresses, post-it notes suits, and backwards hoodies. 

Fashion shows are often meticulous displays of elegance, with models gracing runways at their most sleek and refined, yet AVAVAV SS24 is everything but. Messiness isn’t new to fashion, with designers like Diesel using torn fabrics and disheveled materials for previous shows; however, AVAVAV’s collection is especially distinctive because it cleverly embodies nervous tension through mid-runway meltdowns and frenzied, untimely arrivals. 

Meanwhile, UNDERCOVER’s SS24 collection portrayed grim, eerie fantasies, adorned with sheer tulles draped over dark, neutral-palette suiting. As incandescence spilled into darkness from shattered chandeliers lining the runway, the collection’s finale saw three models in glowing terrarium gowns — with real butterflies fluttering amongst roses inside. UNDERCOVER consolidates fashion with fantasy in the collection, lacing magic within shrouded organza tailoring, and garments that speak of whimsical, otherworldly grandiose. 

Though Internet virality followed these unorthodox runways, the shows are conveyors of brand identity more so than marketing gimmicks. Whether interactive, chaotic, or of a horror story, the personality brands display in their shows reveal the purpose behind their clothing. Fashion Week 23 cements that fashion is straying far off the conventions of traditional runways, and moving  to a state where there’s value put in how the designs are presented. 

About the Contributor
Nathan Perera, Staff Writer
Nathan Perera will be beginning his second year in Gamut as a writer. He enjoys writing A&E, alternating between scathing reviews to praiseful columns. Writing is at the heart of Nathan’s passion, having first joined the Gamut to become part of a group of people that shared his love for writing. In addition, he is also the Vice President of the Creative Writing Club at Oxford Academy. Outside of school, he enjoys thrillers and dramas in the form of both books and TVs. “Cruel Summer” is among his favorite TV shows. He also enjoys alternative rock and pop. Lana Del Rey is his favorite artist, and his favorite album from her is Norman F. Rockwell. When asked what he likes most about her songs, he admitted he loved everything about it, ranging from their attractive visuals to heartfelt lyrics. Nathan is excited for the rest of his time in Gamut and Oxford, and he will continue to follow his passion for writing.